Tuesday, August 4, 2015

Thinking about Bill

From time to time, people ask me to restring a necklace and, in the process, to redesign it - the French call this "re-looking" (the word applies to any "redo", whether clothing, furnishings, or whatever). It's something I enjoy doing, because usually the pieces are old and I get a chance to handle interesting beads from another era or culture. And because I'm working with someone specific in mind, it provides an opportunity to reflect on that person while I work.

So a friend asked me to restring a necklace that her husband Bill had made for her. The clasp was scratching her, making the necklace uncomfortable to wear. As long as I was doing that, she wanted to add some silver beads to the mix; at the same time, there were design elements, like double strands in places, that she particularly liked and wanted to keep.



Bill died two years ago. I didn't know him as much as I would have liked. I only knew him at group gatherings, where he didn't say much but didn't miss much either. I knew from things that my friend told me in passing that Bill was competent in whatever he undertook to do, that he had an artistic bent, and that he was very manual.

The necklace arrived in the mail, and I unwrapped it. Old Indian trade beads were the focus, a real treat for me, since it was the first time I had ever handled any. And what a surprise! Bill and I were kindred spirits in the design department: what I like to call a studied asymmetry. His color sense was very appealing, particularly the little touches of blue. I too liked his double strands - they added texture to the piece. Furthermore, Bill's stringing technique was excellent, and the problem with the clasp he would have fixed with just a little snip of his wire cutters if he were still alive.



After Bill died, I learned more about him. He was a real cowboy who made his own way in the world, doing construction and wood-working along the way. This led to an encounter with an artist from whom he took lessons, where he met his future wife. They were married in six weeks and were together almost 50 years when he died. During those 50 years, they developed an eclectic assortment of interests, from Indian arts to travel to poodles. I think everything they did together was an adventure shared and a richer experience because of it.

For this necklace, I wanted to leave the essence of Bill, his design, and his work, so I decided to restring it in pretty much the same way he had, simply replacing some of the beads with silver ones. I also wanted to make sure that all the original beads in the necklace were returned to my friend, because Bill chose them for her, so I used the ones I took out of the necklace to make a pair of earrings in somewhat of an Indian style, and the few that remained ended up on a small ring with fillers to use on a keychain or as an amulet or however she would like.


I can see Bill clearly in my mind: wiry, weathered, in jeans, smoking a cigarette. And under my fingers, I was able to touch a little of Bill, connecting just a bit to his artistic spirit. I couldn't do much for my friend when Bill died - there are thousands of miles between us geographically. But at least I could give her back Bill's necklace ready to wear again - I think Bill would approve of my work.

Saturday, May 2, 2015

Interesting Chains

A client asked me to make something like a photo she showed me ... of course I can't ever do exactly that, but it was a good place to start. The concept was a chain with big links that had bigger links threaded through two other links in random places. The client wanted to have beads added to her chain, and she wanted it to be 75cm long (a sautoir). We looked at what I had in the way of dark gray beads and settled on hematite in different shapes. And then I started to play ...

I made the first chain with medium links and divided it into parts. Then the hematite beads needed to be prepared - I wanted to make sure they would stay put, which meant a wrapped loop at the end of each bead. I put the beads and chain together and realized that the beads were too small for the link size of the chain. SO I selected larger beads and did another round of wrapped loops (NOT my favorite task). At the same time, I decided to make the chain longer so that it could be easily worn doubled. I added bigger links in black ice and found just enough smaller ones to use them too. As a finishing touch, we chose a hematite pendant to attach to one end, so that it could be worn in the front as a pendant.

 
And I still had the smaller hematite beads, so I constructed a chain with smaller links and only the bigger dark gray accent links. The clasp for both of these necklaces is a big lobster clasp which blends right in with the chain, making it easy to wear it in front, including in a Y configuration. (I first tested it with a hook clasp, but when the pendant was worn in the front, the hook wouldn't stay closed.)

  

This one is shorter, but it still has the choices of pendant, no pendant, and Y form. All of this was for a special order ... now I'm going to make one for myself, but it will be multi-colored (what a surprise!).

Saturday, April 11, 2015

So what's new?

Sometimes wacky is the way to go ... with a large quantity of diamond-shaped beads in four colors, I thought it would be fun to do one necklace with two color schemes - the same bead shape throughout makes it hang together (so to speak ... ). So this is a 60" necklace: half is red and very pale pink and half is blue and barely tinted clear. And here are all the things you can do with it: 
*wear it double - it looks like you're wearing two
*wear it triple - it hangs well and has body
*wear it single - with a knot in the middle, it looks like something a flapper would have worn
Since no necklace is perfect with every outfit, how about one that will adapt at least three ways!

   
 

And in the chain mail department ... I was very excited to be able to find metal beads in geometric shapes - it's been about 20 years since I last saw these. They go wonderfully well with chain mail - they make a great focal point. (One of my Christmas clients had me add a triangular bead in the same style to her chaos weave necklace - it looked great!)


Tuesday, August 26, 2014

The Rectangle Bead Collection

This was an exercise in using the same bead shape in different color combos. I've used this shape before, as part of a mixed lot; this was the first time I chose specific colors to create the same necklace in different colors. The necklaces are long enough to go around the neck twice or three times.

I started with black, clear, and silver - easy to wear dressed up or down.


Then I went to lavenders and blues, with just a touch of olive green - colors for a blond or redhead.


Turquoise and orange, strung in blocks of color - strictly summer!


And red-orange beads alternated with all sorts of colors - probably my favorite in the bunch!




Friday, August 22, 2014

Creating Collections - Chain Mail

I've been making chain mail jewelry for five years now, but it certainly doesn't seem like it! I think it's because every time I use different colors, it feels like I've just learned a new weave. Chain mail continues to float my boat enormously, and I had fun this spring putting a variety of color arrangements together. Plus, I added a new touch to my chain mail necklaces ... see below!

Two Byzantine chains: one in red and silver on one half, with the inverse on the other half; and one in good summer colors of hot pink, orange, and purple, highlighted with silver.


Here are four different color combos for the chaos weave, which may still be my all-time favorite!


The shop owner who requested these collections also wanted some chain mail pieces with pendants, and there are some very interesting glass pendants out there ...

The black and turquoise necklace has a 3 + 3 chain with a big flower pendant. I had to make the necklace longer so that the pendant rested properly on the chest - it really needed to be right at the top of the cleavage. (This is my pet peeve about jewelry at the moment - there seems to be a lot creativity without practicality. If wearing a piece is uncomfortable or difficult, then something is missing in the concept of the piece.)


This is an orbital weave in pastels to go with the pendant which is green with flecks of blue and copper.


Tuesday, August 19, 2014

Creating Collections - Sautoirs

The Christmas market was wonderful ... out in the country on a farm, outdoor sculptures of all kinds, cookie workshops in the kitchen, very interesting co-exhibitors, visitors ready to buy (it was an invitation-only market), and Christmas carols sung by all as we packed up. My best sales ever!

In January, I went to the professional jewelry show in Paris, Bijorhca. It took me two days to see and absorb it all, and as I left, I was deep into thoughts about the process of creating a collection. For 25 years, I have made jewelry using materials that inspire me - I rarely sit down and think through how to produce a group of pieces with a coherent identity. But visiting Bijorhca took my musings down a different road ...

In the early spring, I was asked to create a set of pieces to leave on consignment in a local shop for the summer tourist season. (I did not in the least mind leaving them on consignment - even if nothing sold, I'd just be that further ahead with stock for Christmas sales.) The owner of the shop looked at what I had and then told me what he wanted. Working out how to create the collection was a new experience!

He liked the monochrome necklaces made with a mixture of vintage beads, and he liked them sautoir, or opera, length, about 50 inches. I also like that length, because the necklace can be worn doubled or tripled or with a knot - very versatile - and I know from experience that these always sell. SO ...



These are fun to create, because I can use all kinds of beads (although it is very difficult here in the wilds of France to buy old beads loose, so my stock of vintage beads is diminishing). I was in the shop the other day, and there was the client who had bought the green one - I think every craftsperson likes seeing his or her creation with the person who chose to buy it!

Sunday, November 24, 2013

Brin de Magie !

Brin de Magie ! A Bit of Magic!

I'm doing a Christmas market at the end of this week, and you can see what it's all about by clicking here

 
Of course, that means that I have been busy working ...
Looks vintage but it's new glass.
Czech glass disks.
A variety of colored stones with adjustable length clasp.
These little colored beads are called squarelets - their hole is off-center.



Black, bronze, and yellow byzantine chain with glass pendant.
A redo - little turquoise seed beads to highlight the orange!
Calsilicate and wood fossil - I might have to keep this one!
These are very interesting: cat's eye glass in barbell (or peanut) shape.
Purple Czech glass with mini square crystals.
And these are flat square beads with spectra glass cubes in bright colors.
Hematite donuts with glass crystals.
Blueberry quartz, which is actually a synthetic stone.